If my life had gone as planned, I would have become a marine geologist specializing in waves and erosion. It would have been the preface for traveling the world to study different kinds of beaches and their waves. Surfing the waves would have been required in order for real in depth investigation. Didn't work out that way, but at least I did have a plan and a dream.
That was cool, thanks. There's some implication in the comments that it's come and gone before...
The conditions for such a long run of identical waves have to be just right. It could happen as a fluke once in a while most places, I guess, but for it to be predictable like that? That's got to be unique. Seems like one good winter storm would mess up the sea floor enough to wreck the effect. Drop a bit of seaweed...
If my life had gone as planned, I would have become a marine geologist specializing in waves and erosion. It would have been the preface for traveling the world to study different kinds of beaches and their waves. Surfing the waves would have been required in order for real in depth investigation. Didn't work out that way, but at least I did have a plan and a dream.
A not so secret surf spot ... also home to Jaws. How lucky do you feel ? Some neat pics
The conditions for such a long run of identical waves have to be just right. It could happen as a fluke once in a while most places, I guess, but for it to be predictable like that? That's got to be unique. Seems like one good winter storm would mess up the sea floor enough to wreck the effect. Drop a bit of seaweed...
Do you recognize this picture ? Do you know who this is ? Or the exact location of this picture without thinking twice or having to look it up ? Then you were there in the beginning.
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This is what I grew up in the middle of and indelibly shaped the rest of my life. I would do it all over again.
“Surfing is kind of like the Dance of Shiva. Shiva dancing on the dwarf of ignorance…it will always be a way to keep in touch with the Earth and forget about all the bullshit and all the madness of modern life. That’s why I love it so much.” — el griffo, 1989
Before reading, I suggest putting on a pot of coffee.
A huge influence on my life. My last surfboard made by Bahne, which rests in the tool shed was shaped by Mike Hynson, one of the two surfers in the movie. Robert August was the other.
Bummer. Loved that movie. He did a great motorcycle movie back in the early 70's that influenced me called "On Any Sunday".
A huge influence on my life. My last surfboard made by Bahne, which rests in the tool shed was shaped by Mike Hynson, one of the two surfers in the movie. Robert August was the other.
David Nuuhiwa was one of my heroes back in the day. Was out in the water with him at Huntington one gorgeous sunny summer day in 68. We just both happened to be there the same day. Kinda neat. He was watching me ! I was having a pretty good day, everything was working. I was riding my board that Dale Velzy shaped for me, a nice 8'6" mini gun. I was just 15 then working in the El Paipo factory in Costa Mesa that summer. Dale was shaping for Hobie then and was doing the shaping for our paipo boards. I got him to shape one for me. Just cost me the price of the Clark blank. I did the rest, glassed it, the fin.
The old El Paipo logo. I got canned when the owner found out I was only 15. Something about being underage to work with power tools.
Didn't work out that way, but at least I did have a plan and a dream.
