Location: Really deep in the heart of South California Gender:
Posted:
Feb 22, 2022 - 8:15pm
miamizsun wrote:
how about the top of your noggin?
looks a bit sandblasted too
*giggle*
edit: i had a nasty hip grinder once, looked like i was clawed by a wild animal (body fat really is white)
You know what they say...
Bald in front: Thinker.
Bald in back: Lover
Bald all over: Think they're a lover.
That picture was taken over 12 years ago.
That spot has stayed the same since then.
I've had thin hair there since at least... my wife told me when we were dating in '74.
I've been a lover since... before then.
Some things never change.
Yep. Even sand can hurt in big waves.
Not to mention sand blasting.
Then there's those funny little "giddie up " heart beats you can also have on seeing the fin of a big White Pointer gliding by just as you know you are about to be crunched on the bottom.
that's an unbelievably massive wave i'm not sure the depth at the trough below but that guy is clearly in a hazardous position i've been slammed and more or less "mandolined" at the bottom of a small wave being pushed into the sandy bottom with big wave on top of you is scary now imagine a reef/coral or nasty slag/rocks down there
Just diving under a wave is pretty intense. A big, 18 footer for me once or twice... maybe 6 times. Many more with 12's -14's. Can you imagine the weight of that wave.
Can you imagine the pressure.
That's when you become ONE with nature. And your ears will let you know.
There was a book written by Willard Bascom that I read as a kid. Waves and Beaches. In it among lots of other things that I learned about the fluid dynamics of the ocean was the mention that water pressure in a breaking wave has been measured in tons per square foot. I read that book over and over again as I got to experience what he was talking about while surfing and just being at the beach. It is never fun getting caught back in the tube and getting sucked completely over the falls and slamming on the bottom. That brief moment of weightlessness is brought to a sudden screeching halt with the impact. The rest is like being caught inside a giant washing machine that has no mercy. The only lucky thing about sand is it is not coral or rocks.
While everyone was talking about Marine Biology I was all about Marine Geology. I wanted to study beaches and erosion and other things as an excuse to travel the world and go surfing where ever there were rideable waves. My girlfriend who is now my wife, and I had it all figured out. We were going to get a boat ala Michner's Adventures in Paradise and sail around the South Pacific. I would be the marine geologist and she would be a school teacher. While it didn't exactly go that way, we still ended up together.
Bascom is credited with coming up with the idea of using neoprene for wetsuits and many other things. Remember Sealab down at Scripp's in La Jolla ? Astronaut Scott Carpenter and Ricky Grigg were both Aquanauts onboard. Grigg was my role model when it was all said and done. I was going to go to OCC, transfer down to UCSD and eventually over to Scripp's. Pretty lofty goals. Well, maybe not OCC, but the rest was. Then there was the war and lot's of other things, but as mentioned above, I still got the girl.
Location: Really deep in the heart of South California Gender:
Posted:
Feb 19, 2022 - 9:50pm
miamizsun wrote:
that's an unbelievably massive wave
i'm not sure the depth at the trough below but that guy is clearly in a hazardous position
i've been slammed and more or less "mandolined" at the bottom of a small wave
being pushed into the sandy bottom with big wave on top of you is scary
now imagine a reef/coral or nasty slag/rocks down there
Just diving under a wave is pretty intense.
A big, 18 footer for me once or twice... maybe 6 times. Many more with 12's -14's.
Can you imagine the weight of that wave.
Can you imagine the pressure.
That's when you become ONE with nature. And your ears will let you know.
that's an unbelievably massive wave i'm not sure the depth at the trough below but that guy is clearly in a hazardous position i've been slammed and more or less "mandolined" at the bottom of a small wave being pushed into the sandy bottom with big wave on top of you is scary now imagine a reef/coral or nasty slag/rocks down there
The first thought I had... those whose passions take them out before dawn have access to a private world others will never know they're missing. The first sunlit hour of the day (especially in the summer at 5am) can be magically peaceful.
Then there was the war and lot's of other things, but as mentioned above, I still got the girl.
