But kurtster, I have to ask: How can you be a surfer and live in Ohio?
It's still a state of mind. It's a lifestyle / mentality that I never abandoned. It's a mentality that comes from living just to surf everyday and doing it for a period of time. It's hard not to get this mindset if you have gone through this process. It's how you learn to view the physical world. It was my world from the age of 12. I woke up with an unobstructed view of the ocean every morning for the next 4 years and a lazy 10 minute walk to the beach.
I'm not the only surfer here, so this is only one take, but maybe it expresses some of the same thoughts as the others.
In order to be successful your primary goal is to become one with the ocean. You can only do this by observing and being in it at the same time. Your whole world focuses on sunrise, sunset, high tide and low tide; the clock is something that gets in the way of all of this. It's a rhythmic life that revolves around the 6 hour interval of the tide changes. It's an hour later everyday and the height of the tide changes every time as well. This knowledge becomes innate. It's also a part of anyone who lives along a coast and has daily activities in the ocean.
Then you get into the weather and not just local. You learn about storms and wind because they generate the things that give you the most possible joy in your life, waves. We didn't have all the technical toys, camera's, buoy's and computer simulations to help you predict the time and place to be within an hour's window to get a certain wave at a certain place. We did it by patiently observing the world around us. You heard of storms on the 6 o'clock weather and that was about it. You had to do the rest yourself. There were some tools like the local lifeguards surf reports. Like this one. The Huntington Beach, California surf report. 714 536 9303. This phone number is unchanged since the early 60's that I know of and I have remembered it all of this time. The number still works, just dialed it. There were many surfaris that came up empty. Drive all day stopping every couple of miles at the next beach and looking at the ocean for a half an hour, hoping that something was going on and end up saying nope, let's keep looking. But you would be always looking hoping to see some nuance that would give you hope for waves. And sometimes that was all you did, look and observe, never get wet. You learn to deal with time in a whole 'nother way of thinking.
How do you forget all that you learned based upon a total commitment ? I've just built on it, but this is my roots. My goal until recently was to get back to the beach, permanently. That ship has since sailed. I'm forever tethered to the Cleveland Clinic. It helped me deal with my chemo. My chemo sessions were a bit different than most. Mine lasted 6 days. Check in Monday morning and get out Saturday afternoon being pumped full of poison every moment. There were times that I had 5 pumps working 5 bags at the same time. There were always at least 3 of 4 pumps going. You can only pass so much time sitting in a bed staring at a clock for 6 days. I called it incarceration. But I guess that with the choice of sit there or die, being able to reach deep into something helped. I had another way to deal with time that came from surfing. I did time shifting. How to sit and do absolutely nothing turning your brain off via focusing on one thing. In this case, nothing other than just being. I learned how to do that by sitting on a beach or cliff just starring at the ocean for hours on end and doing nothing but that and being completely happy and at peace with myself. There weren't waves everyday, but just being there was enough to keep grounded and in tuned in to something bigger than you. I guess that it might be considered a homegrown form of meditation. All things will pass. During my transplant, one of the DVD's I brought with me was Step Into Liquid.
So yeah, I'm still a surfer, at least in my mind. It gave me an awareness of life and later helped save my life. A few years ago I had a summer where I got to go boogie boarding and catch waves in both oceans. That was a first for me. Being in two oceans in one summer let alone catching waves. I would like to do it again somehow, someway. Still have my last board and a couple of boogie boards and my Duck Feet. I used to compete and have done many other things in the surfing world including working in a board factory one summer when I was 15.
Does this qualify ?
Edit: Another life lesson you learn from surfing is that as soon as you step off of dry sand, you become part of the food chain and you are no longer the top predator. Here's a clip from a place I used to surf when I was a kid and went out at in one of my recent trips back home.
Donald Trump is destroying America with every passing second, and you have the gall to check out these awesome surfing GIFs? How dare you?
How about fuck you ? This offends me as a surfer.
One of the joys of surfing is paddling out into the lineup and all that matters is the next wave. Leaving all the problems of the world behind you on the beach. There is no politics in the lineup.
Have you ever stood up on a board ? Do you know the difference between Clark foam and Walker foam ?
If you really want to help surfing go get the homeless off the streets whose shit on the sidewalks and in the gutters washes into the storm sewers fouling the waters and closing the beaches so no one can go out into the water.
WSL @ Teahupo'o, Tahiti live right now (until 9.30 pm eastern) on Fox Sports 2 and for the next 3 or 4 days. check your local listings. Monday is scheduled to start at 1.30 pm eastern. Expecting a 10' to 12' swell with light offshores tomorrow.
Meanwhile, the wife is in PR, scheduled to leave this Wed just as the 'cane is supposed to arrive.
He was both a craftsman and an artist. Curving those 3/4" redwood stringers was no small feat. Everything cut by hand including those curved cuts in the blank. He was known for work like this. He sorta had that territory to himself up in SB back then. His only real competitor for business up there then was Tom Morey down in Ventura. Morey is the inventor of the Boogie Board. And a whole lot more surfing related things. Polypropylene fin systems, Slipcheck which was a sprayon texture coating for boards to replace wax, which it didn't. Too abrasive on the knees. We all knee paddled back then. We sprayed it on up on the nose mostly. That was back before leashes and when you would actually walk back and forth on a board rather than just stand there planted and carving.